Sarah in Praha
Monday, 6 December 2010
Snowed under!
If you are reading this blog to hear about the trials and tribulations of moving abroad, you can simply take the last months' silence as an indication of just what it's like to be an expat. Busy, tiring, with not enough time to even update a paltry little blog, let alone do all the things one actually needs to do - that's what it's been like. But I'm not complaining - if you know me, you know that busy is how I like it best. Until it all finally takes a breather and lets me pause - like it has tonight - and then I like nothing better than a hot bath, my pyjamas and a bit of peace and quiet.
Crikey, the last time I updated this blog I'd just been to watch Zizkov play football! Well, the football's on its Winter Break right now since we seem to be permanently underneath at least 30cm of snow. That match seems an age ago! The snow started falling last weekend, the 28th November, at which time I was spending a weekend in Manchester and so I missed the first flurry. However, as I waited for the tram to take me home after that weekend jaunt, the snow began again at 8pm and did not stop until very very late the next day. We've had a little more on most days ever since, with a substantial amount again today; there is definitely something absorbing about gazing wide-eyed out of the window watching the snow drift down and wrap everything up in its soft white blanket, while you are supposed to be supervising 9De1 German complete their December Levelling Test...
This being the Czech Republic, I am pleased to report that the country seems to cope largely very well with the freezing conditions. The trams work (bar the occasional freezing tracks and digging-out sessions); the metro works (bar the treacherously slippery floors and huge accident potential); the buses work (bar the perpetual threat of road-rage due to the drivers' tendency to drive faster in the snow!). Walking around Prague at the moment is a dangerous game, though: snow and cobble stones do not mix. But hey! I'm certainly living the 'abroad' experience, in that every day is a new and slightly more dicey adventure...
The transport system has failed me once, however. And at a most inconvenient time. There I was last Thursday, after four months' planning, standing on the platform at Hlavni Nadrazi accompanied by 31 twelve-year-olds and three intrepid and shivering colleagues, waiting to board the train that would whisk us off for EISP's first Linguistic and Cultural Visit to Germany. It seemed that the powers-that-be decided right then to unleash the largest amount of train-related chaos imaginable onto the Czech and German railways.
Imagine thus: 1o mins delayed.. 20 mins.. 30 mins.. (at this point we were thankful that our train was not delayed 90 or 100 mins like those before ours on the Departures board!).. platform 3.. RUN, kids! RUN! ... no train at the platform... -10 degrees air temperature... train cancelled. But wait! That's our train over there on Platform 1! RUN, kids, RUN like you really want to go on this trip! Get on the train! That's it, everyone.... oh, train cancelled. Everyone off. Can we change the tickets for the 12.31, since ours was cancelled? Excellent, we can, although the 12.31 already has a 20 min delay and it's not even 12.00 yet. Right, everyone, eyes on the Departures board for further announcements. 30 mins delay, 35 mins... PLATFORM 3!! Let's go! GO GO GO! Everyone on the train? Everyone got a seat? Yes, great. Relax, kids, we might be 3 hours late and frozen solid, but we're on our way to Germany! Except, erm, we're not. The train needs to wait in Hlavni Nadrazi for 60 further minutes due to 'technical problems'. Right, well if we've not moved by 2pm, we need to abandon- our 3 day trip is already down to the best part of 2 days. 1.55pm... the train's moving! Hurrah! We really are off this time now. We lean our heads back in our seats and relax, thanking our lucky stars, as the snowy scenes flash past our windows... aaaaaaand then we stop. Yes, that's right kids, we're going to sit for 40 minutes on the track, all of 5km out of Prague, due to more 'technical problems'. Great. The Fatherland has never seemed so far away.
Finally, after all that palaver and accompanied by 31 very downhearted kids, I made the decision to abandon the trip and return to school. Tails firmly between our legs we trudged through EISP reception, admitting our defeat by the weather. We'll try again in the Spring. I don't imagine Germany is going anywhere fast, and it will probably be a whole lot easier to enjoy a visit once everything's defrosted.
Right, a brief summary then of some highs and lows of the expat life in Prague.
High - a Sunday afternoon walk in Divoka Sarka park on the outskirts of Prague, an hour well spent in the fresh air and Autumn chill just before the snows. Beautiful.
Low - getting my bag stolen a couple of weeks ago from right by my side in a bar, losing the passport, keys, wallet, phone, camera (hence the lack of photos on the blog from now on)...
High - getting most of it back including the vital passport, via a couple of kindly souls on the other side of town :)
Low - three consecutive days spent journeying to the post office to pick up replacement bank cards/travel pass. See an earlier post on how much I detest the post office.
High - getting the 17th November off work for Revolution Day, and using it very profitably for a visit to the countryside and a day's walk to Karlstejn, finishing with a well-earned beer in a Hospoda below the formidable castle. Great scenery, great company. Thanks Dykesie, Nush, Rhian and Jon!
Low - needing a pair of 'sensible winter boots' in order to make my way through the snow without getting frostbitten, soaking ankles.
High - finally finding said pair of industrially grippy boots in the good old Doctor Marten shop (where else, you might ask!)
Low - working a long, long term until the Christmas break
High - Christmas coming early - beautiful Christmas markets; plentiful hot wine stands; and a wonderful Christmas weekend just gone spent planning, cooking and eating Christmas dinner along with 15 of our friends. It's times like that when I feel so at home here, and it's testament to how welcome everyone's made me feel from the start.
It has to be said that there are many more highs than lows so far. I love my job - it's easy, it's fun, it's not without challenges but those are not insurmountable. I love the city - it's stunning to look at, it's easy to get around, it's full of little hard-to-find gems of bars, cafes and restaurants - all the good things in life! I love my friends - the fact that last week I was at parties or gatherings on Monday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights says it all. And I love my little flat - it's cosy right now with all the candles going and the view through the window of the snow coming down. There are a few key people missing - I do miss you, though I find it difficult to say - but they're never far away on Skype, on the phone or by plane - in fact right now I'm preparing for an influx of visitors starting 20th December. So, it's all going well, and life here seems so far to be suiting me just fine.
I just can't wait for those 9 more get-ups to pass, and then I really will be able to let the Prague Christmas take hold!
Festive greetings to all, I wish you less snow, and plenty of winter warmth!
Love to all x
Sunday, 31 October 2010
'Let's go away to come back'
Friday, 15 October 2010
I'm back!
Sunday, 3 October 2010
A Weekend with the Duke, czech-style
Thursday afternoon saw Gully (hilariously disorganised Welsh friend with the world's kindest heart) and I lead the Silver Expedition group out of school, onto bus, metro, bus and bus up to a Royston Vasey, or at least the Czech equivalent. First challenge was to find the B&B - easier said than done. I think we bluffed it successfully - "kids, first D of E initiative test is to find the accommodation... it's a test... we know where it is really..." - but just in the nick of time, an elderly village local shuffled his way up the road and led us directly to the front door of our self-proclaimed 'stylish pension'. One hearty chicken-and-potatoes dinner later, laid on by the B&B lady for 50kc, we planned the expedition routes and headed to bed. At this point I shall do my best to recreate the atmosphere of that B&B. Imagine, if you will, all the colours from 1960s decor thrown together in one happy place, accompanied by the smell of your Nan's cooking and the sounds of creaky doors and howling winds (well, I made the howling winds bit up, but the rest is accurate). Once the kids were off to bed, Gully and I celebrated our safe arrival in Cesky Raj with half a soluble asprin each in shot glasses whilst seated in our brown Granny chairs watching static on the un-tuneable portable TV. Rock n' roll, needless to say.
On Friday the kids completed a fairly eventless first day of hiking (eventless apart from leaving a map behind in the B&B, getting lost several times and realising on arrival to the campsite that they'd forgotten the poles of one of the tents, that is). Meanwhile Gully and I 'remotely supervised', ie we had a picnic, caught the train, did some shopping, went for lunch and enjoyed a hot chocolate at the campsite awaiting their arrival. At this point, I thought, Czech D of E is definitely for me. Chaos took hold at check-in at Autocamp Sedmihorky, however, as somewhere in between English, Czech, German, gesture, mime and much furrowing of brows, we managed to ascertain from the bewildered campsite lady that our kids were supposed to camp in the middle of -wait for it- an Archery masters weekend. Blimey. Bob Rhodes would have had a bleedin' fit at this flagrant breach of Hampshire County Council D of E health and safety regulations, were he to have been present. As the archers proceeded to set up all manner of bizarre plastic animal models as their targets, we harangued the campsite lady to give us another piece of grass for use. Eventually she decided we could camp inbetween the rows of families in their caravans. Fine for our kids, but would you like a bunch of worn-out irritable teenagers camping outside your plastic caravan window? No, thought not. Anyway, kids arrived, set up camp and started to cook their delicious dinner (largely goulash). We retired to our heated cottage to eat a fine chicken curry brought down by Anuska, our third colleague who joined us that evening, accompanied by an entirely appropriate amount of wine and some very sensible conversation. A rather perfect evening, all in all.
As Saturday dawned, so too did the Archery Competition announce its opening with the Human League's 'Don't you Want Me' blasting out through the tannoy system. Hi-de-Hi! this wasn't . As soon as we could we bade farewell to the archers who were so busy firing arrows into their plastic gibbons and leopards, they probably didn't notice us leave. We set off the Silver group on their route, and accompanied the newly-arrived Bronze group up the hill to Hruba Skala castle. After a bit of route-planning at the top we abandoned them, too, for their first taste of hiking without the teachers! Unwittingly I had established myself as 'map technician' and was being relied on to make sure we, unlike the kids, did not lose our maps. I succeeded in this, but failed in making sure we did not accidentally miss part of the path and end up clambering up a near vertical hillside to find our way out of a staggeringly beautiful but very deep gully. This is where I found out that on Czech D of E - completely unlike Mountbatten's - the teachers hike too. No minibuses here, oh no. It was a lovely day though, blessed with sunshine and clear blue skies, as we walked through sleepy villages and caught back-garden glimpses of pre-Revolution Czech life (and indeed post-Revolution life, for it is still like that in many parts here). We feasted on pumpernickel bread, cheese, ham and biscuits for lunch, and spent the last hour or so walking, talking, pepping ourselves up with wine gums and bracing ourselves for imminent arrival at Hell.
Yes, Hell.
And on that note I shall temporarily pause the story and leave you guessing, for my fingers ache from typing and my back longs to be stretched out and have its rucsac grooves softened. Am I being melodramatic enough? It's not that bad at all, really - I am just tired and feeling a little pathetic. And very, very sleepy. The story will resume tomorrow after a good night's rest.
Hoping you are all well, wherever you are reading this. Tomorrow - tales of Hell and High Mud. And goblins serving beer from the rocks in which they dwell (really). Love to all xx
Tuesday, 28 September 2010
Flipping Heck!
Tuesday, 21 September 2010
A Tourist Weekend

I am very sorry about that. This will be a quick post too since I am yet again short of time. Here are a few photos from the weekend - all were taken from Charles Bridge. In the two night photos you can really see why Prague is often called 'the golden city'!
I was lucky enough to be graced with a visit from Anthony this weekend, who flew out on Thursday night to spend the weekend getting to know my new home town. I can safely say that he loved it! I introduced him to just about the right combination of International Food Festivals, drinks, beautiful riverside restaurants, impressive nighttime cityscapes, Euro-Rock clubs and sunny tourist walks, so I believe he went home happy.
We took in Charles Bridge (of course), the castle, Letna park and beer garden, Wenceslas Square, Old Town square, and many winding little streets which we found whilst getting lost in Stare Mesto. We found Grosetto Marina Italian restaurant with its beautiful riverside view; rested in Ebel Coffee House in the Old Town; and made it for Mojitos in the graffiti-adorned Blue Light bar. There is still much to do and so hopefully he'll be back for another visit soon.
More blog to follow later - hopefully a more interesting and finely-crafted entry - to include D of E tales, EISP International Week and plans for New Year.

