Monday, 6 December 2010
Snowed under!
If you are reading this blog to hear about the trials and tribulations of moving abroad, you can simply take the last months' silence as an indication of just what it's like to be an expat. Busy, tiring, with not enough time to even update a paltry little blog, let alone do all the things one actually needs to do - that's what it's been like. But I'm not complaining - if you know me, you know that busy is how I like it best. Until it all finally takes a breather and lets me pause - like it has tonight - and then I like nothing better than a hot bath, my pyjamas and a bit of peace and quiet.
Crikey, the last time I updated this blog I'd just been to watch Zizkov play football! Well, the football's on its Winter Break right now since we seem to be permanently underneath at least 30cm of snow. That match seems an age ago! The snow started falling last weekend, the 28th November, at which time I was spending a weekend in Manchester and so I missed the first flurry. However, as I waited for the tram to take me home after that weekend jaunt, the snow began again at 8pm and did not stop until very very late the next day. We've had a little more on most days ever since, with a substantial amount again today; there is definitely something absorbing about gazing wide-eyed out of the window watching the snow drift down and wrap everything up in its soft white blanket, while you are supposed to be supervising 9De1 German complete their December Levelling Test...
This being the Czech Republic, I am pleased to report that the country seems to cope largely very well with the freezing conditions. The trams work (bar the occasional freezing tracks and digging-out sessions); the metro works (bar the treacherously slippery floors and huge accident potential); the buses work (bar the perpetual threat of road-rage due to the drivers' tendency to drive faster in the snow!). Walking around Prague at the moment is a dangerous game, though: snow and cobble stones do not mix. But hey! I'm certainly living the 'abroad' experience, in that every day is a new and slightly more dicey adventure...
The transport system has failed me once, however. And at a most inconvenient time. There I was last Thursday, after four months' planning, standing on the platform at Hlavni Nadrazi accompanied by 31 twelve-year-olds and three intrepid and shivering colleagues, waiting to board the train that would whisk us off for EISP's first Linguistic and Cultural Visit to Germany. It seemed that the powers-that-be decided right then to unleash the largest amount of train-related chaos imaginable onto the Czech and German railways.
Imagine thus: 1o mins delayed.. 20 mins.. 30 mins.. (at this point we were thankful that our train was not delayed 90 or 100 mins like those before ours on the Departures board!).. platform 3.. RUN, kids! RUN! ... no train at the platform... -10 degrees air temperature... train cancelled. But wait! That's our train over there on Platform 1! RUN, kids, RUN like you really want to go on this trip! Get on the train! That's it, everyone.... oh, train cancelled. Everyone off. Can we change the tickets for the 12.31, since ours was cancelled? Excellent, we can, although the 12.31 already has a 20 min delay and it's not even 12.00 yet. Right, everyone, eyes on the Departures board for further announcements. 30 mins delay, 35 mins... PLATFORM 3!! Let's go! GO GO GO! Everyone on the train? Everyone got a seat? Yes, great. Relax, kids, we might be 3 hours late and frozen solid, but we're on our way to Germany! Except, erm, we're not. The train needs to wait in Hlavni Nadrazi for 60 further minutes due to 'technical problems'. Right, well if we've not moved by 2pm, we need to abandon- our 3 day trip is already down to the best part of 2 days. 1.55pm... the train's moving! Hurrah! We really are off this time now. We lean our heads back in our seats and relax, thanking our lucky stars, as the snowy scenes flash past our windows... aaaaaaand then we stop. Yes, that's right kids, we're going to sit for 40 minutes on the track, all of 5km out of Prague, due to more 'technical problems'. Great. The Fatherland has never seemed so far away.
Finally, after all that palaver and accompanied by 31 very downhearted kids, I made the decision to abandon the trip and return to school. Tails firmly between our legs we trudged through EISP reception, admitting our defeat by the weather. We'll try again in the Spring. I don't imagine Germany is going anywhere fast, and it will probably be a whole lot easier to enjoy a visit once everything's defrosted.
Right, a brief summary then of some highs and lows of the expat life in Prague.
High - a Sunday afternoon walk in Divoka Sarka park on the outskirts of Prague, an hour well spent in the fresh air and Autumn chill just before the snows. Beautiful.
Low - getting my bag stolen a couple of weeks ago from right by my side in a bar, losing the passport, keys, wallet, phone, camera (hence the lack of photos on the blog from now on)...
High - getting most of it back including the vital passport, via a couple of kindly souls on the other side of town :)
Low - three consecutive days spent journeying to the post office to pick up replacement bank cards/travel pass. See an earlier post on how much I detest the post office.
High - getting the 17th November off work for Revolution Day, and using it very profitably for a visit to the countryside and a day's walk to Karlstejn, finishing with a well-earned beer in a Hospoda below the formidable castle. Great scenery, great company. Thanks Dykesie, Nush, Rhian and Jon!
Low - needing a pair of 'sensible winter boots' in order to make my way through the snow without getting frostbitten, soaking ankles.
High - finally finding said pair of industrially grippy boots in the good old Doctor Marten shop (where else, you might ask!)
Low - working a long, long term until the Christmas break
High - Christmas coming early - beautiful Christmas markets; plentiful hot wine stands; and a wonderful Christmas weekend just gone spent planning, cooking and eating Christmas dinner along with 15 of our friends. It's times like that when I feel so at home here, and it's testament to how welcome everyone's made me feel from the start.
It has to be said that there are many more highs than lows so far. I love my job - it's easy, it's fun, it's not without challenges but those are not insurmountable. I love the city - it's stunning to look at, it's easy to get around, it's full of little hard-to-find gems of bars, cafes and restaurants - all the good things in life! I love my friends - the fact that last week I was at parties or gatherings on Monday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights says it all. And I love my little flat - it's cosy right now with all the candles going and the view through the window of the snow coming down. There are a few key people missing - I do miss you, though I find it difficult to say - but they're never far away on Skype, on the phone or by plane - in fact right now I'm preparing for an influx of visitors starting 20th December. So, it's all going well, and life here seems so far to be suiting me just fine.
I just can't wait for those 9 more get-ups to pass, and then I really will be able to let the Prague Christmas take hold!
Festive greetings to all, I wish you less snow, and plenty of winter warmth!
Love to all x
Sunday, 31 October 2010
'Let's go away to come back'
Friday, 15 October 2010
I'm back!
Sunday, 3 October 2010
A Weekend with the Duke, czech-style
Thursday afternoon saw Gully (hilariously disorganised Welsh friend with the world's kindest heart) and I lead the Silver Expedition group out of school, onto bus, metro, bus and bus up to a Royston Vasey, or at least the Czech equivalent. First challenge was to find the B&B - easier said than done. I think we bluffed it successfully - "kids, first D of E initiative test is to find the accommodation... it's a test... we know where it is really..." - but just in the nick of time, an elderly village local shuffled his way up the road and led us directly to the front door of our self-proclaimed 'stylish pension'. One hearty chicken-and-potatoes dinner later, laid on by the B&B lady for 50kc, we planned the expedition routes and headed to bed. At this point I shall do my best to recreate the atmosphere of that B&B. Imagine, if you will, all the colours from 1960s decor thrown together in one happy place, accompanied by the smell of your Nan's cooking and the sounds of creaky doors and howling winds (well, I made the howling winds bit up, but the rest is accurate). Once the kids were off to bed, Gully and I celebrated our safe arrival in Cesky Raj with half a soluble asprin each in shot glasses whilst seated in our brown Granny chairs watching static on the un-tuneable portable TV. Rock n' roll, needless to say.
On Friday the kids completed a fairly eventless first day of hiking (eventless apart from leaving a map behind in the B&B, getting lost several times and realising on arrival to the campsite that they'd forgotten the poles of one of the tents, that is). Meanwhile Gully and I 'remotely supervised', ie we had a picnic, caught the train, did some shopping, went for lunch and enjoyed a hot chocolate at the campsite awaiting their arrival. At this point, I thought, Czech D of E is definitely for me. Chaos took hold at check-in at Autocamp Sedmihorky, however, as somewhere in between English, Czech, German, gesture, mime and much furrowing of brows, we managed to ascertain from the bewildered campsite lady that our kids were supposed to camp in the middle of -wait for it- an Archery masters weekend. Blimey. Bob Rhodes would have had a bleedin' fit at this flagrant breach of Hampshire County Council D of E health and safety regulations, were he to have been present. As the archers proceeded to set up all manner of bizarre plastic animal models as their targets, we harangued the campsite lady to give us another piece of grass for use. Eventually she decided we could camp inbetween the rows of families in their caravans. Fine for our kids, but would you like a bunch of worn-out irritable teenagers camping outside your plastic caravan window? No, thought not. Anyway, kids arrived, set up camp and started to cook their delicious dinner (largely goulash). We retired to our heated cottage to eat a fine chicken curry brought down by Anuska, our third colleague who joined us that evening, accompanied by an entirely appropriate amount of wine and some very sensible conversation. A rather perfect evening, all in all.
As Saturday dawned, so too did the Archery Competition announce its opening with the Human League's 'Don't you Want Me' blasting out through the tannoy system. Hi-de-Hi! this wasn't . As soon as we could we bade farewell to the archers who were so busy firing arrows into their plastic gibbons and leopards, they probably didn't notice us leave. We set off the Silver group on their route, and accompanied the newly-arrived Bronze group up the hill to Hruba Skala castle. After a bit of route-planning at the top we abandoned them, too, for their first taste of hiking without the teachers! Unwittingly I had established myself as 'map technician' and was being relied on to make sure we, unlike the kids, did not lose our maps. I succeeded in this, but failed in making sure we did not accidentally miss part of the path and end up clambering up a near vertical hillside to find our way out of a staggeringly beautiful but very deep gully. This is where I found out that on Czech D of E - completely unlike Mountbatten's - the teachers hike too. No minibuses here, oh no. It was a lovely day though, blessed with sunshine and clear blue skies, as we walked through sleepy villages and caught back-garden glimpses of pre-Revolution Czech life (and indeed post-Revolution life, for it is still like that in many parts here). We feasted on pumpernickel bread, cheese, ham and biscuits for lunch, and spent the last hour or so walking, talking, pepping ourselves up with wine gums and bracing ourselves for imminent arrival at Hell.
Yes, Hell.
And on that note I shall temporarily pause the story and leave you guessing, for my fingers ache from typing and my back longs to be stretched out and have its rucsac grooves softened. Am I being melodramatic enough? It's not that bad at all, really - I am just tired and feeling a little pathetic. And very, very sleepy. The story will resume tomorrow after a good night's rest.
Hoping you are all well, wherever you are reading this. Tomorrow - tales of Hell and High Mud. And goblins serving beer from the rocks in which they dwell (really). Love to all xx
Tuesday, 28 September 2010
Flipping Heck!
Tuesday, 21 September 2010
A Tourist Weekend

I am very sorry about that. This will be a quick post too since I am yet again short of time. Here are a few photos from the weekend - all were taken from Charles Bridge. In the two night photos you can really see why Prague is often called 'the golden city'!
I was lucky enough to be graced with a visit from Anthony this weekend, who flew out on Thursday night to spend the weekend getting to know my new home town. I can safely say that he loved it! I introduced him to just about the right combination of International Food Festivals, drinks, beautiful riverside restaurants, impressive nighttime cityscapes, Euro-Rock clubs and sunny tourist walks, so I believe he went home happy.
We took in Charles Bridge (of course), the castle, Letna park and beer garden, Wenceslas Square, Old Town square, and many winding little streets which we found whilst getting lost in Stare Mesto. We found Grosetto Marina Italian restaurant with its beautiful riverside view; rested in Ebel Coffee House in the Old Town; and made it for Mojitos in the graffiti-adorned Blue Light bar. There is still much to do and so hopefully he'll be back for another visit soon.
More blog to follow later - hopefully a more interesting and finely-crafted entry - to include D of E tales, EISP International Week and plans for New Year.
Tuesday, 7 September 2010
'First week down...' type musings
Wednesday, 1 September 2010
Early mornings, long days, such is life in Prague!
School is working out very well indeed. Experiences I have had so far which are completely different from those I enjoyed at Mountbatten: 1) two students begging me to teach them German in any slot I might happen to have free on my timetable, because they REALLY WANT TO LEARN IT. 2) Break duty in the canteen consisting of me having to supervise... wait for it... 3 kids eating sandwiches and then putting all their litter in the bin, tucking their chairs under and leaving promptly at the end of break with no hassle. 3) After informing my Year 10 class that I would work them *really* hard this year, their reply of 'oh thank god miss, we don't think our levels are good enough and we really need to get them higher'.
I could go on, but I won't. These are just some highlights. There are obviously some gripes, after all nothing is perfect, but I have decided to turn over a new positive leaf and so am deliberately focusing on the positives and avoiding the moaning. And hey! any down sides that there may be are outweighed by the fact that I'm here, in the middle of Europe, hearing more languages spoken every day than I could shake a dictionary at. As a language teacher, that has to be worth a lot.
One big adjustment, though, ('adjustment' rather than 'moan' - just feel the positivity!) is the early start to the day. Basically, if I'm not up at 6.15, I feel there won't be enough hours in the day to get everything done. Now, if my Dad is reading this, he will right now be commenting to my Mum along the lines of 'pfffft, 6.15!! These kids just don't know they're born!!' Every day is like a Top Gear Challenge: down the stairs, through the Prison Gate (extra safety in my block of flats - don't ask), across the road to the tram stop from where you can guarantee a tram will have just left. On the next tram 4 stops to IP Pavlova metro station, down the steps, into the metro, 5 stops to Kacerov, up the escalator, onto the bus, 13 mins (precisely) of the squeaking, squealing ex-USSR (surely, it must be) bus, through the woods, down the road and into school. Phew! I admit that this description makes it sound much more arduous than it actually is - it takes just over 35 mins in real terms, which I use as 35 mins of sleep/daydreaming/lesson planning in my head - but it is still more of an effort in some ways than 15 mins in the car. However, I am one of those strange sorts who enjoy using public transport for the sake of it, so it's all good for me.
Inaugural Wednesday night meal was had tonight - this is Chris' and my decision to force ourselves (not much forcing required, I must admit) to go for a meal once a week, to both let off steam and to ensure that we actually do get out and socialise in amongst the hectic schedule of work. However, I have made it to the swimming pool on Monday and the torturous Aerobic Dance gym class yesterday, so perhaps I should establish a weekly 'stay in' rather than a weekly 'go out'! This time, if my parents are reading, they'll be tutting and shaking their heads and muttering 'some things never change'. Just joking M&D- I know you're happy for me really!!!
The Czechs take their fitness seriously, and now, so do I. Well, in between the Chinese meal I had today and the enormous Thai feast I had on Saturday night courtesy of Anuska, that is. The swimming pool at Podoli really is a sight to behold. Comprising a 50m indoor pool, a 50m outdoor pool and a frighteningly high diving board, this swimming centre is a behemoth. I had a lovely de-stressing swim outdoors on Monday night, as darkness fell, but did start to wonder halfway along my first length exactly when or if I'd get to the other end. 50 metres seem much longer than 2 lots of 25 metres - now how does that work? But the strangest thing about the pool was undoubtedly the 'drying room'. You see, apparently you are not allowed to enter the changing rooms whilst wet. This would appear to make things rather difficult, however this is where the 'drying room' comes in. Have you ever walked past the extractor fan from a restaurant and felt that hot, greasy air pumping out into the street? Well this is something similar, except a) the air is less greasy and b) you are naked. Everyone is naked. Nakedness is embraced and indeed celebrated in the Czech swimming pool showers and drying room. In fact, it rather reminded me of being in Germany where a similar love of nakedness is displayed. I must confess that I enjoyed the drying room, it certainly did add to the pleasures of swimming and that lovely feeling of being all warm and clean that you get after a trip to the pool.
I shall leave the terrifying and painful tale of Aerobic Dance for another time, mostly because I now have to go to bed and it might take me a while to get there, seeing as I am currently walking like a horserider/very sore cowboy as a result of that darn class!
But in summary, all is going very well here. There are tricky moments, as there always are with setting up home somewhere else, but the positives are definitely at the front of my mind. I miss you all, but it's nice to know you are there, and all those good wishes on Facebook as I started my first week were lovely - and greatly appreciated. More and more visitors are lining up now though - I am happily booked up for New Year - so get in touch if you need a room in Prague and I will see what I can do!
Love to all - you are in my thoughts xx
Wednesday, 25 August 2010
On the concept of feet barely touching the floor
Friday, 20 August 2010
First views of EISP
Tuesday, 17 August 2010
Ceska Posta - or the Bitter Disappointment of thinking someone's sent you a parcel, only to discover that it is a Gas Bill.
Monday, 16 August 2010
POZOR! Thunder and lightning!
Last night's storm has to be my main talking point today, simply because it was just fantastic! Not since the Grand Canyon (another story) have I seen such powerful lightning, heard such thunderous thunder (ok, I'm tired and my adjectival power is waning) and got so utterly drenched in the rain. You know that photo a couple of posts ago, of me coming home in the rain? Well, let me tell you that that was 'a light shower' compared with last night's downpour.
And the most amusing part is, for the first instalment of the storm which apparently produced marble-sized hailstones, I was locked away three floors down in the basement of a gig venue watching Beirut play a fine set, and so I and the rest of the crowd had no idea what was going on outside ! Until the stage manager pulled Beirut offstage early due to 'a leak coming through and water falling on the amps, and therefore danger of electrocution'! The crowd and I were thinking, hmmm, a leak? Dodgy pipes? But then we got up the stairs and released a collective 'aaaaah!' when we saw what was going on.
This will be a short post due to a) the internet cafe closing now around me and b) the fact that I need to brave a Czech post office between the impending hours of 18.00 and 19.30 to collect my mysterious package, which wouldn't fit in my post box and so the postman left me a complicated Czech notice telling me (I assume) about it. Wish me luck - more blog tomorrow when I am hopefully much less tired.
Love to all (and better weather) x
Saturday, 14 August 2010
Why I don't drink Absinth, and other lessons in life
Thursday, 12 August 2010
Tonight, Matthew, I'm going to be... a tourist
Tuesday, 10 August 2010
Grandma's Meatball and other delicacies
The picture you see here is from the Couchsurfing Tea Tasting morning which I attended on Sunday - we tried the newly-arrived Japanese teas and Janko (the tea master) gave us an explanation of his teas and how they were harvested, and explained the different flavours. It was a lovely sociable morning with many other Couchsurfers from all different places. If you are unfamiliar with Couchsurfing see www.couchsurfing.org - a great way to make new friends in your city.
Since then I have mostly been eating. Chris and I have tried a different restaurant each night, if I can remember the order rightly since my arrival (A WEEK AGO - how time flies) it was pizza, Czech, pizza, Chris's cooking, Czech, Czech, Indian. I must keep a list of all the interesting specialities and downright silly menu translations I come across - favourites this week include Cheap Cheese, Hidden Meat and Grandma's Meatball. Unsurprisingly, perhaps, neither of us was quite brave enough to tuck into Grandma's Meatball, but I am sure there will come a time...
We ate Indian last night and commented on the fact that it was 'like being at home' - that just about sums up English food for you! It was quite tasty but not my favourite meal out so far - that would be the 3 kinds of fried cheese eaten a couple of nights ago. Now you see why I have been driven to take up running. Happily I do actually seem to be losing weight despite the meals, but then, if you live at the top of a hill and walk up and down it at least 3 or 4 times a day, you've got to be on to a winner on the fitness front.
I'm off to my local GE Moneybank today to collect my debit card which has apparently arrived. I have to say, it was surprisingly (thankfully) easy to set up the bank account, largely owing to the fact that Chris had already done his and so paved the way with the lovely bank ladies for me to do the same - what a charmer. But the whole process went exceedingly smoothly and soon I will have spending power! Which will come in handy when we make our return trip to Ikea and I furnish my flat with two bright red chairs I've got my eye on.... yes my first ever trip to Ikea was yesterday, though we were carless so just had a look and decided what to buy when we return with transport, and finally I saw what all the fuss was about! What a great place. I shall have to go back. (The lure of 20kc fried cheese in the restaurant is just too much to resist).
So today's adventures involve the bank, and then purchasing some sturdy walking shoes as my poor feet need some support! Who knows what tonight's dinner will serve up - there was talk last night of playing Czech Menu Roulette - involving deliberately not obtaining the English menu and just choosing something, anything, at random.
But if it ends up being Grandma's Meatball, I think I'll go hungry, thanks.
Hoping everyone is well x
Sunday, 8 August 2010
Home from home!
Friday, 6 August 2010
When you live in a country where beer's cheaper than water, the need for running becomes apparent
Oh dear... what a picture. I thought I'd better put some photos of something other than my flat, so at risk of being boring, I have chosen this delightful picture taken yesterday evening by Chris at the first of several beers. This was Chris's 'night of not drinking' (read: 5 pints) and tonight is mine, as I could really do with a rest. Let's keep an open mind, shall we?
So yesterday was another day of finding out information, trying to process it and ending up being bewildered. I managed to arrange an internet connection (good thing) but this being the Czech Republic, there is no rush, so the engineers will not come out until the 18th (bad thing). At least there's a lovely wifi cafe next to my building - the Motor Cafe (it is better than it sounds). I put my languages to good use by arranging the internet connection in German, since it was the only language I shared with the sales assistant . However, half way through, my landlady appeared in the queue behind me and it turned out she'd come down to arrange the internet connection on my behalf! Bless her. So she helped me, and now it's (hopefully) all sorted.
After that I explored Flora, my nearby shopping centre. For those who know Southampton, think West Quay but 5 mins walk from my front door, and much quieter, and so I was very pleased to make this discovery. After 2 days of bureacracy and beer I decided some retail therapy was in order so I bought a range of t-shirts to get me through the impending 30 degrees plus weather due to be arriving tomorrow.
Yesterday afternoon was spent in the happy company of my 'Czech step by step' self study guide which I acquired in the shopping centre. I learnt 'Co znamena ...?' (what does ... mean?), 'Jsem z Anglie' (I'm from England) and 'Jak se jmenujete?' (what's your name?). And other assorted unpronounceable phrases. This afternoon I shall undertake lesson 2, which I believe contains hotel vocab and some foods. Interesting!
And last night I met Lyn, another new EISP colleague, and her entourage of partner, sister and friend who helped her bring all her suitcases here. Park was visited, pizza was eaten and beer was tidily put away. Which brings me to this morning's 11am awakening - the time by which I had eaten breakfast, done some washing and most extraordinarily of all, BEEN FOR A RUN yesterday.
Well, here's to the weekend - who knows what startling Czech incidents it may hold. See you on the other side.

